Zermatt and the Matterhorn. |
||||
My weekend journey to the southern Swiss town of Zermatt, a town under the shadow of the infamous Matterhorn mountain.
|
||||
![]() |
![]() |
Since arriving in Switzerland in April, I have seen the Matterhorn's image used everywhere, even on the Toblerone chocolate box, it seems to be somewhat of a national symbol. Anyway, enough of the Simpson's, I took a half day off work in August 2006 and took a 5 hour train ride to Zermatt, via Bern and Brig, and managed to book myself into a shared room at the local YHA. |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||
![]() |
||||
I arrived in the town late afternoon, and felt really quite sick after eating too many haribo sweets on the very twisty matterhorn express train from Brig. I had decided to stay at the YHA in Zermatt rather than a hotel, but being fairly peak season had only managed to secure a bed in a shared room for the Friday night. I'm rather pleased with myself for not going the easy option and staying in a hotel. Straight away, this was a good choice, and the room was perfect, with 6 clean beds in it. I met two English guys who were in my room. They were from the town of Kingsbridge in Devon, which is a small out of the way place, where my mate Andy Palmer comes from. We started laughing about the nightclub there, Fusion 2, and the delightful farmers daughters who frequent it. Their names where Nick and James, who also called themselves the coconut brothers, and I was invited to sign their guitar which had been signed by fellow travelers on their post school tour round europe. We headed out to the North Wall bar, where Pocket one of the local semi pro skiers and barman encouraged us into drinking far too much. before I knew it we were in an adjacent nightclub, I was very drunk and it approached 4am before I staggered back to the room. |
![]() |
![]() |
||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||
I woke up early, feeling utterly terrible, alcohol and high altitude don't work very well together. The town of Zermatt itself is over 1,500m elevation. James and Nick had headed back to the hostel earlier than I, and didn't look as worse for wear, the Italian climbers who were also in the room had left at sunrise, no doubt headed for the mountain. The YHA was really excellent, and breakfast and supper were both included for 55Chf approx £25, but it meant getting up pretty early and I felt so ill, but staggered off to breakfast regardless with the guys. Unfortunately, I couldn't stay on in the Hostel and they were fully booked for Saturday night, so I had to pack my gear up and head into town. I arranged to meet the guys for a beer that night at the North wall bar again, and walked towards the station, where there were luggage lockers. In the centre of the town is a large church and graveyard next to the river. I had a short walk around it, and was sad to see all the tragic gravestones of the mainly young men, who'd died on the matterhorn. There were two large plots all full of fairly recent graves, and it became even more clear, that this wasn't a mountain to undertake lightly. I had read a wikipedia article on it before departing and the swiss mountain guides page on it. They recommend you climb several other local mountains first and be comfortable climbing at a certain rate per hour, and you have to do a halfway trail run before a guide will allow you to go for the summit. I was really quite saddened to see all the graves, and it really made me think about how seriously one would have to want to climb it, to risk your life in doing so, I didn't feel the need to climb it anymore. Stashing my backpack and gear in a locker, I crossed Bahnhofstr to the Gornergrat railway, which is the steepest funicular railway in europe, sometimes reaching 45 degree's. It's very expensive at nearly 80Chf, though fortunately I was allowed to use my half price swiss railcard. The top of Gornergrat is nearly 2 miles up, and has very obviously a lot less oxygen. I ran up past the hotel and observatory for under a minute and my whole vision went black for a few seconds, and I gasped for breath, at this point well above the last tree's. I was desperate to get a good shot of the Matterhorn from here and normally it would be a complete tourist trap with offerings of your photo with a St. Bernard and the mountain in the background. I waited for approx 2 hours hoping that the cloud would clear before descending. |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
||||
As I went down the Gornergrat railway, I saw an enourmous glacier, through a clearing in the clouds, only 2 stops down from the top at approx 2,500m. I got out of the train, and walked down to a hiking path, where I spotted a mountain goat, or Alpine Ibex to use the correct name. I spent approx 2 more hours at the top waiting. |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
At the top of the Gornergrat are a couple of dome's and a solar neutron instrument, run by a Japanese and Swiss partnership. I am very into Astronomy and Cosmology and was disappointed not to be able to speak to anyone about what they were doing with the kit here. He had decided to come back and visit 44 years later, and had been to the graveyard with his wife to find his friends grave. He took out his digital camera and showed me a picture of it, it was from the graveyard I had visited earlier in the day I discovered. This was a really touching story, and really quite sad, that for all these years his mate had been dead, whilst he had carried on living and had got married, had children and 40 plus years of living, it seemed very sad tragic to me, though I was very pleased to hear such a personal story. |
||
![]() |
I shook his hand and said goodbye after he decided it was time to quit waiting for the mountain to show, it was starting to get even colder and snow was falling again. I also gave up some time later, and had yet to book a hotel for the night. I read my lonely planet guide book after an interesting chat with a chap from California called Vish who had also been out trying to take photo's. He told me about a great spot on the Hornli trail to take photo's from and we arranged to meet the next morning. Anyway so my guidebook told me about a mountaineers shelter for a mere 17chf per night, it was quite unique and a real find. |
|||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
I had a great night's sleep at the shelter, and as Patrick Tame put it when I showed him a picture of the bed's, married people don't sleep that close together. The bunks were rather close, and a sick chinese looking fellow was in the adjacent bunk, he bulked a bit when I insisted we had the window open, with 13 of us in the room, most of which were climbers it didn't smell like a picnic. Anyway it was a superb experience, and the chap at reception took pride in telling me that there were no locks on any of the doors, including the front door, I found it all very novel, and if I was a millionaire, this would have been an experience I would have missed out on. The lift was going to cost a staggering 80Chf until I produced my half price rail card, which I was very satisfied to be able to use even here, what a wonderful country. I had heard no reply from Vish, I figured that he had bailed on the early start, 7am at the lifts was optimistic I suppose. It took approx 90mins to ascend to Schwarzsee, including a wait halfway up where the lift splits for skiers, of which even in summer months there were quite a few. The lift towards the Hornli hut doesn't start until 8am, so I was stuck. Eventually I reached the top and managed to get my first views of the matterhorn, already it was starting to become enveloped in cloud. |
|||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
![]() |
The trail was very hard going, I am fit, I've run 10 marathons I figured, but I just was not acclimatised to this altitude, again over 2 miles up. I had to force myself to walk slowly and constantly take air breaks to catch my breath. I walked about 2 miles an hour I think, and sat at the top of a boulder pile for approx 45mins with my tripod, patiently trying to get a photo of the mountain without cloud. Eventually I decided to push on to the Hornli hut as it was obviously getting worse. |
||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
The trail up towards the Hornli hut was quite unexpectedly scary. I was really intimidated by the long drops and rickety stairs, and dangerous pathways. I had my silly yellow Asic's running shoes on and was completely unprepared for this harsh environment. I had purchased gloves the day before and thick socks, but had no other mountain equipment. You can see how so many people die on this mountain. One can jump on a lift from town and suddenly be 2 miles up with the wrong equipment and perhaps no water etc. I was very cautious and scared at the same time, but made my way along the trail for about 2 hours towards the hornli hut. I got about three quarters of the way there before deciding to turn back. The weather was getting worse all the time, and I was out of my depth, I sat down and took a few more photo's, the one of the crucifix on the mountain gave me plenty of pause for thought, clearly somebody had died near here not so long ago. It took a long time to get down to Schwarzsee and I met Vish near there, he'd woken up late and didn't fancy the early rise, I wished him luck and headed down to town and the station. I was very relieved to be only 1,500m up and now had absolute respect for that mountain. It had been a wonderful weekends experience, and I'm fortunate to have met such great people along the way. This was real travel. |
|||
| Authors: | Page and Photographs created by: James Bartosik. |
| Date of event: | August 5th, 6th 2006. |
| Page History: | First created: 12/10/06. Last Revision: 2/11/06. Revision version: 1.2. |
| Camera and Lenses: | Canon 350D, EF-S 17-85mm IS, F4-5.6 USM, EF III 75-300mm F4-5.6. |
| Locations: | Zermatt, Switzerland. Click for Google earth link. |
| Wikipedia links: | Matterhorn / Zermatt. |
| Copyright: | © Copyright material, all rights reserved. |